Day 1: The Journey Begins!

Our summer adventure kicked off on a bright Saturday as we set off from the Cotswolds, eagerly heading south towards the charming village of St. Day in Cornwall. The drive was smooth, and before we knew it, we were pulling into the Bluff Inn in Hayle. What better way to start the day than with a full English breakfast? With our bellies full, we strolled down the beach just outside the pub, soaking up the fresh sea air. Hayle town center was next on our list, where we grabbed a coffee from a market stall before setting our sights on St. Day. A quick stop at Tesco for essentials, and we were on our way to check into our three-bedroom 5 star lodge at St. Day Tourist Park. Let me tell you, this place is perfect—cozy, spacious, and it even has a hot tub! We were off to a great start.

Day 2: Beach Hunt & Pasties

The plan for Day 2 was simple: find a beach and enjoy some sun. Easier said than done! The smaller beaches were jam-packed, and parking was a nightmare. So, we redirected back to Hayle town center. We couldn’t resist grabbing pasties from Philps, a local favorite. Delicious! But the crowds were a bit much for Caitlin, so we drove her back to the lodge while Sue, James, and I headed to Hayle beach. The tide was out, and we had a blast paddling about. Back at the lodge, we couldn’t resist another dip in the hot tub. It’s becoming a bit of a theme!

Day 3: St. Ives & Star Gazing

After a lazy morning at the lodge, we decided to venture to St. Ives for dinner. We landed at Tretho Lounge, where it was burgers all around. As always, the food was fantastic. St. Ives was buzzing with energy, but we eventually made our way back to the lodge. We stayed up late, hoping to catch a glimpse of the meteor shower that was supposed to light up the night sky. Sadly, the meteors were a no-show, but we did spot a few satellites and some very enthusiastic moths. And yes, we ended the night with a soak in the hot tub.

Day 4: Rainy Day Retreat

The rain greeted us on Day 4, so we embraced it with a late start. I whipped up a full English breakfast, and we decided it was the perfect day for a pajama and hot tub session. The weather might have been chilly, but the hot tub was the perfect antidote. I took advantage of the downtime to work on my blog posts and bring the website up to speed. It was a productive, relaxing day, just what we needed to recharge. I also booked a mackerel fishing trip for James and me in St. Ives for tomorrow. Fingers crossed for good weather!

Day 5: Cancelled Plans & Coastal Walks

We hit the road at 9:45, aiming to reach St. Ives for our fishing trip. However, traffic had other plans, and we found ourselves crawling along with the rest of the world, all heading to the beach. After parking near the leisure center, we made our way down to the harbor. That’s when I noticed I had a missed call and a message. The fishing trip was canceled due to “weather conditions.” It was sunny and calm where we were, but apparently, there was a significant swell beyond the harbor walls.

Disappointed but gradually understanding about our lack of fishing, we got a refund from the charter boat - and after a perfect coffee and cinnamon buns boost from a lovely little cafe (Yallah Coffee Roasters) we decided to explore the coastal paths of St. Ives instead.

During our wander, I swear I spotted a shark and a seal, but of course, no one else saw it—my secret wildlife encounter! We eventually settled on a lovely pizza place right on the harbor. Onzo Pizza had just opened since our last visit in March, and it did not disappoint. The views from upstairs were incredible. After a satisfying meal, we stopped by Aldi for a few groceries and headed back to the lodge for a quiet evening. No Mackerel tonight. Pffft.

Day 6: A Day at the Zoo and a Trip Down Memory Lane

Being members of the Bristol Zoo Project (formerly The Wild Place) definitely has its perks. One of the best is the reciprocal free visits to other zoos when our membership renews. Since our membership had just been renewed, and we happened to be close to Newquay Zoo, we decided to take advantage of this benefit. I emailed the zoo ahead of time to let them know we were planning a visit.

We left our lodge around noon and, thanks to the infamous Cornish summer traffic (which, yes, we were contributing to—sorry, Cornwall!), we arrived at Newquay Zoo around 1 PM. The zoo is conveniently located next to a park and a leisure centre, with a reasonably priced pay-and-display car park nearby. We've been using the Just Park App for most of our parking needs, and it's been a lifesaver—super easy to set up and use. Although, fair warning, if you're on GiffGaff like us, 3G is plentiful, but 4G can be a bit spotty.

The zoo itself was busy, but not overwhelmingly so. Newquay Zoo first opened its doors in 1969 and has expanded over the years to include a variety of species and habitats. Today, it’s a nice place—not amazing, not spectacular, but nice. The enclosures are decent, though my daughter, who studied animal conservation at university, felt they could be a bit more spacious for the animals. We had a pleasant time, brought our own crisps and water, and took a break next to the armadillos.

We left the zoo around 4:30 PM and decided to visit the Headland Hotel, a place I believed had a connection to my father. During World War II, he and his schoolmates were evacuated to a hotel on a headland to escape the night bombing raids. At the age of 14 (this would have been around 1942), he and his friends explored the beaches and caves in the area. One day, they made a haunting discovery—a Nazi pilot's body washed ashore after ditching in the sea. This story has always stayed with me, and the idea of my father making such a discovery makes this coastline feel even more mysterious and connected to our family.

We arrived at the Headland Hotel, a stunning 5-star establishment with breathtaking views. Needing lunch, we checked out the menu and ended up at “The Terrace” which has a beach café vibe.

Three of us opted for fish and chips, while my son went for a burger. The food was absolutely delicious, though at £20 per dish, you’re definitely paying for that luxury experience. We also had some coffee before settling the bill and taking a wander around the hotel grounds. As the name suggests, the hotel is perched on a headland, offering spectacular views of the beaches and coastline. I couldn’t resist filming a few bits to camera, retelling the story of my dad’s macabre discovery on the beach in 1942.

However, when we returned to the lodge later that evening, my wife, after doing a bit of research, revealed that my dad had actually stayed at the Pentire Hotel, not the Headland! We had a good laugh about the mix-up and joked that it gives us the perfect excuse to revisit Newquay. Interestingly enough, the Headland Hotel has its own claim to fame—it was immortalized on film as the setting for Jim Henson Productions’ 1990 movie “The Witches.” The cast and crew even stayed there during filming. As a big Henson fan - this was a great discovery!

Day 7: Hot weather, hot tub and Seafood Tapas

The day began in a blissfully laid-back fashion. I didn't roll out of bed until 10am—holidays seem to sap the energy right out of me. After a quick breakfast of toast, I found myself lounging on the decking. The morning air was still cool, but it was clear that the day was going to be a scorcher. And around here, that means two things: Susan will inevitably suggest a trip to the ocean, and approximately 456 million other families will have the same idea, flocking to every golden square inch of Cornish sand. This complicates the whole affair—getting there, parking, and actually enjoying it, given the crowds.

Plus, it's a universal truth that no matter how remote a spot you find on the beach, someone will inevitably plop down right in front of you, complete with windbreak, tent, and BBQ, obliterating your view of the sea.

So, as a compromise, we agreed to shift our beach visit to after 5pm, combining it with a trip to St. Ives when most families would be hitting the road, eager to tuck their little darlings into bed.

The morning was spent in a most demanding fashion. At 11, I settled into the hot tub. Then I moved to the sun. Twenty minutes later, it was back to the hot tub. And so on. It was hard work, but someone had to do it.

By 4:30, we were ready to hit the road. The sun was still high, the air warm. We reached St. Ives around 5pm and, to my pleasant surprise, parking was a breeze. So far, our plan was working flawlessly.

We meandered around the harbor, checking out all the familiar spots and a few new ones we wanted to try. Unfortunately, none had available tables, and the hangry vibes from Sue and the kids were becoming palpable. We made our way to Cintra Seafood Bar at the far end of the harbor, and thankfully, they had a table for us.

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The menu was a delightful selection of small dishes. We devoured homemade bread, pan-fried gurnard, tandoori monkfish, salt & pepper squid, and Korean fried chicken. It was nothing short of amazing.

Content and full, we waddled over to the beach, capturing a few last photos of the sea and sand before having a quick paddle. We wandered back to the car and headed to the lodge for one last soak in the hot tub.

Now, with my camera gear packed away and a zero-alcohol beer in hand, I'm sitting here wishing for another seven days in this lovely lodge. But with a 10am checkout tomorrow, it's early to bed tonight to make sure we leave this place just as we found it. Perfect.

Cornwall Diaries: Our 7 day Summer Escape to St. Day